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Author Topic: Pink Spitfire  (Read 19305 times)
jenshb
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« on: March 27, 2009, 01:48:26 AM »

Thought I'd let the thread on correcting the Hasegawa kit remain just that, and then do specific modelling on this one get it's own thread.  This will be an FR.IXc from 16 Sqn based in France in September 1944, and I will use the Cartograf-printed decals from Barracudacals.  

For a short while, I was considering using a Cooper Details cockpit, but rejected the idea; I wanted to finish this model relatively quickly and Hasegawa's cockpit is among the best kit cockpits out there, so I decided to save that for another project that was in more need of help.  Therefore, the interior was dressed up with a mix of scratchbuilding, Ultracast and Eduard.

The right hand side - the main additions here are head armour from 0.25 mm plasticard, oxygen hose and bracket for the seat.  The back armour is also 0.25 mm plasticard, but not shown.



The left hand side has had the door opened up.  The floor and instrument panel is just attached for show.  Some details from Eduards etched fret for the ICM kit were used - rudder pedals, trim wheels and boxes mainly.  The kit instrument panel has been shaved off to be replaced with the Eduard one after painting.   The camera port has been added - this is almost 5 mms in diameter.  I've punched a disc from clear sheet plastic, and it is easier to adapt the hole than modifying the disc.  The plastic strips are alignments for the camera insert from Cooper Details.



Internal resin...from left to right; Cooper Details camera, Ultracast door (for the ICM kit - it's slightly longer than the Hasegawa door) and Ultracast seat with Q-type harness (late war).



Jens
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Aleksander
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« Reply #1 on: March 27, 2009, 12:34:11 PM »

Nice build - looking fine so far. Is she 1/48 ?
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jenshb
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« Reply #2 on: March 27, 2009, 01:09:42 PM »

Sure is Aleksander - see my other thread on Hasegawa 1:48th fuselage corrections...

Jens
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« Reply #3 on: March 27, 2009, 11:39:08 PM »

I can see the plasticard inserts Smiley Great work on the cockpit. Pls keep us posted.
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jenshb
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« Reply #4 on: March 28, 2009, 06:24:37 PM »

Thanks for the interest gents.

The basic colours are on.  First I preshaded the interior grey green bits with Tamiya dark green, and then went over with Xtracrylics IGG and retained some dark green in the shadows.  After a coat of Polly S clear gloss to make the wash flow easier, it will be time for a wash followed by drybrushing. 









Here's a way to recreate the blotchy appearance of bakelite in scale.  It's a variation on the theme armour modellers use to create rain streaks and variation in the surface finish.  First I dotted oil paints of various colours on the seat that previously was painted Vallejo Cavalry Brown followed by Polly S clear gloss to protect it.  The oil paint was left to dry for 10-15 minutes.



The oils were then dabbed off with a stabbing motion with a stiff brush moistened with thinners.  The back cushion is painted Van Dyke Brown to represent leather.



Still to come drybrushing when the oilpaints are dry - in a day or two.

Jens
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marluc
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« Reply #5 on: March 29, 2009, 12:05:33 AM »

Hello Jens:

Excellent work so far.I like the way you improved the cockpit interior using a mix of scratch build and aftermarket products.Thanks for sharing this WIP with us.
Congratulations for the superb post about improving the lenght of Hasegawa Spit.Best regards:

Martin
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jenshb
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« Reply #6 on: March 29, 2009, 08:07:31 PM »

Thanks for that Martin.

The interior is drybrushed and washed.  The lever to adjust the seat is added - a combination of the kit part and Eduard photoetch.  The pictures were taken befori joining the camera to the LF fuselage. 







Painted the seatbelts and buckles.  Tamiya Buff for the belts and og Games Worskhop Chainmail for the buckles followedby an oil wash to bring the details out  Still remaining is the part of the belts that go through the head armour - that will be added when the seat is glued to the frame.  It does look better in real life than in this pic :whistle:



Can soon join the fuselage halves!

Now, on the wings, would this aircraft have the blisters over the undercarriage?  And also, what blisters would be representative for the c-wing?


Jens
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jenshb
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« Reply #7 on: April 01, 2009, 12:19:17 AM »

Fast rewind...  Here's the seat inside the fuselage with the shoulder harness extended using Tamiya masking tape and a piece of copper wire to take it inside the spine.  On the model it was just glued to the back of the camera.  The cables from the underarriage selector were routed past the horseshoe opening for the pilot's feet in the instrument panel. 



Here's the fuselage at the time of writing.  I've drilled holes in the leading edge of the wing to take the cannons from Ultracast.  Still a fair bit of sanding and rescribing to do. 



When I built Hasegawa's model four or five years ago, I wasn't happy with the "sit" - it seemed to be too nose high.  Dryfitting the parts only confirmed my suspicions compared to pics, and I suspect Hasegawa modelled the plane with no load on the gear as the wheels and doors are almost a perfect fit inside the wing as is.  The remedy was to shorten the oleo by one mm and reinforcing it with a brass pin inside the leg.  Next time I will cut it in the bottom of the oleo to hide it better behind the wheel. 



More to come...

Jens
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jenshb
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« Reply #8 on: April 12, 2009, 09:03:39 PM »

The radiators in the Hasegawa kit are OK, but suffer from sinkmarks due to thin material caused by ejector pins.  The etched radiators for the ICM kit can be used and only take a little sanding and scraping of plastic to fit.  The well in the wing must be made a little wider and it will fit like a glove.



For the rear faces of the radiators to fit, the well in the wing must be made deeper - a number 10 blade will make short process of this.  The tubes for heating the guns were added from bent plastic rod.



A bit of filling and sanding later, I've been able to add the machine cannons.  For fear of breaking them, these would go on late when hopefully all seams would be adequately filled and sanded.  Ultracast specifu the length  of the cannon and stubs, so to ensure they are the same, a simple jig can be made from sprues and cuttings from the kit. 







The Dzus fasteners of the cowling were in many cases filled and removed during the earlier process of making it seamlessly blend the nose extension, and rather than punching engraved circles, I used a punch and die set to create discs from 0.13 mm plasticard that were glued with Tamiya liquid cement and then sanded a bit to reduce their thickness. 

Jens
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jenshb
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« Reply #9 on: April 14, 2009, 09:51:07 PM »

Time to paint at last!  A coat of Tamiya Fine White Primer guarantees a smooth top layer and a suitable background for the white invasion stripe on the belly.



First coat of Xtracolor PRU Pink.  The colour is more pink in the picture than in real life, though I plan to mix some white to lighten the tone for the sides and yet further for the top.



Jens
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marluc
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« Reply #10 on: April 18, 2009, 02:15:44 PM »

You´re doing an impressive work Jens,I´ll have it as a reference for my own Spitfire.The PE radiator faces really improved the look of this zone.The jigs made of parts of the sprue are an excellent idea,easy to make,cheap and simple.And the tiny discs over the engine covers remains me of armour modelling and the process of adding bolt heads to tanks surfaces,I admire your patience to achieve this.
Keep on the good work,best regards:

Martin
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jenshb
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« Reply #11 on: April 18, 2009, 03:03:17 PM »

Thanks for your kind words Martin.  It's encouraging to know that my build can inspire others.

The Spit has taken a few steps forward and a few steps back.  Based on the pics and discussion here (thanks guys!) I decided to lighten the colour by pouring as much white in the tin of PRU Pink as I could.  I think I added around 20% white.  It is still rather pink, but I'm counting on toning down the colour and markings by spraying a coat of varnish tinted with light grey.  I have tried to adjust the colours of this pic so that it appears similar on my screen as my eyes see it natural light, but it's still a little too dark in the pic.



As we discussed earlier, there are traces of invasion stripes under the wings, and the question was how wide?  The fuselage stripes are 12", so surely the wings should be the same?  Using masking tape to mock these up, they didn't cover as much as what I could see in the pics, so the next step up was 18".  This looked better to my eyes...



Even if it's hard to see any lighter areas, I assumed that overpainting or attempts at removing the paint would leave traces of both colours, so I masked the entire area and then misted over heavily thinned Xtracrylics white.  Then I masked the black areas on the fuselage and under the wings and did the solid black bands first, then thinned the black and misted over the wings.  When I removed the masking tape, this was the result...



The wheel doors were treated similarly.

The two steps back were that I ripped some paint off the fueltank.  To create the raised panel over the fueltank, I used Bare Metal chrome foil, and paint doesn't seem to stick too well to it...  And I managed to break the aerial mast, though not where I reinforced it to prevent it from breaking...  I might tone down the stripes further when I've got pink in the airbrush anyway.




Jens
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jenshb
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« Reply #12 on: April 19, 2009, 04:21:52 PM »

The Barracudecals went on yesterday, and everything else from Cartograf, they went on flawlessly.  A coat of Polly S first and then Tamiya Acrylic thinner as solvent, they look painted on and sucks into any detail asked of them.



The undercarriage was detailed in the form of brake lines (here shown unpainted to highlight the materials) and a cable that I don't yet know the purpose of...



Here the damaged have been repaired.  The decals have had their protective coat of clear gloss and I will start adding a wash here and there while the repair job is drying.



Edit:  The wash is on.  The first steps anyway...



Further leaks to come:)



Jens
« Last Edit: April 19, 2009, 08:14:37 PM by jenshb » Logged
jenshb
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« Reply #13 on: April 20, 2009, 08:39:17 PM »


Having had an exchange of emails with a friend, I am now leaning towards the fuselage stripes not being wide enough.  The instructions specified 12", but they in photos of X, they do look wider.  Morale of the story?  Verify your instructions...  Oh well, upwards and onwards.  Like more weathering.  The pics show that there are darker areas wherever the ground crew have worked, removing and replacing panels with oily hands, stepping and crawling and leaning with less than clean uniforms and some spills.  The exhaust staining is fairly moderate however.  Tried to capture the look in the photos if not exactly absolute fidelty to the pics.  This was added by mixing some Tamiya Smoke with Tamiya gloss clear thinned with Mr.Color self levelling thinner and barely pulling the needle back on my "best" Iwata.  The more translucent mix gives more control with paint density, but I see that I may have exaggerated it in places.  Once the flat coat is on, I'll add to the weatering with pastels.



The lower surfaces were also treated, though less so.  Further leaks were added yesterday and were drying overnight.  More to come after matt coat to create a bit of sheen to this area to contrast with the flat.



Jens
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marluc
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« Reply #14 on: April 20, 2009, 11:09:27 PM »

Wonderful paint job Jens,you´re doing a very interesting Spitfire.I like the almost faded white /black bands and the dropped elevators are a nice detail,are these resin pieces from Ultracast?
I´m learning a lot with your building process,best regards:

Martin
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